By Harry of Eccles and Alaric Longshaft (Baronial Archer, Rowany)
A brief history
Throwing axes were used by both Dark Age and Medieval Armies. The most famous were Frankish infantry using the heavy shield-breaking Francisca. These were hurled in a volley or two before closing for hand to hand combat.
The Francisca
Later, throwing axes were used as a close range missile weapon by the Vikings, complementing the more popular light throwing spear.
They are recorded as being a very effective weapon, inflicting substantial wounds due to their weight. During the battle of Hastings in 1066, an eyewitness, William of Poitiers, described the exchange of missiles during the battle:
"…the valiant resistance of the English and the death-dealing weight of their projectiles, which included spears, javelins, axes, and stones fastened to pieces of wood…the Saxon weapons found easy passage through the Norman shields and armour, beating down those at close quarters and wounding those who were shooting from a distance."
An SCA history
Axes have been used on and off in Lochac for years, mostly as a secondary weapon, or as a cheap alternative to the bow or heavy armour. More recently axes have evolved into a weapon useful enough to occupy its own space on the field. Much of the work in developing axe tactics was undertaken by Harry of Eccles, who truly pioneered the specialist axe-equipped light, developing tactics for their use and refining the manufacture of the axes themselves. The design explained in this pamphlet is the latest in a long line of experiments.
Making your own
The rules for manufacturing throwing weapons can be summarised as follows:
Maximum weight 2 pounds (although we strongly suggest limiting it to half this)
All striking surfaces (including the end of the handle) must be at least 1.5 inches across, so that no part of the weapon will fit between the bars of a heavy helm without mesh. This enables thrown weapons to be used in non-archer mesh scenarios.
All striking surfaces must be padded
We recommend against using metal weights. The carpet and tape provides all the weight you need as well as being safer and cheaper.
A completed axe
Materials
Duct tape can be obtained from any stationer or hardware store. Closed cell foam can be cut from camping mats. Carpet and foam can be cost-effectively obtained from Reverse Garbage Co-Op (a recycled material supplier – 8/142 Addison Rd, Marrickville, Sydney, NSW, Phone 02 9569 3132). For those outside Sydney carpets can be obtained from a renovated house, and any large supermarket or camping store should stock foam sleeping mats.
Draw and cut out the ‘double-headed axe’ template. Draw and cut out inserts A and B (these are optional depending on the weight of the carpet). All corners should be rounded. Make sure the inside corner of the blade is a gradual curve as this is a weak point that tends to tear.
Fold axe along the dotted line (it’s usually best to have the rubber backing facing out). Tape the handle at several points so that it is rigid and maintains a slightly cylindrical shape. Insert the A and B cut-outs into the head. Tape the head tightly so that the two inserts cannot move.
Trace around the butt of the axe handle on to the carpet and
cut this piece out.
Tape this to the end of the axe. This is the carpet core completed.
Attach foam along the entire spine of the axe with tape. The foam should wrap around the entire handle. Trim to fit the back of the head then tape in place.
Add one or two blocks of foam to the back of the head if it feels necessary (depending on how hard the carpet is).
Trace out the ‘double-headed axe-head’ shape on to foam, making sure it is larger than the carpet. Wrap the foam around the head and fix in place with tape. The foam should fold over the edges of the carpet.
Cut a foam strip to fit along the edge of the axe-blade (say 2 inches wide). Tape this in place. Then tape up the entire axe-head so no foam is visible.
Cut a foam circle to cover the butt of the axe handle, and a small collar to wrap around the butt. Tape these in place. Finally, spiral tape the entire handle. No part of the axe should be untaped when finished.
After completion make a quick check. Make sure all corners are rounded and haven’t been compressed during taping. Make sure all of the striking surfaces have enough foam. If you are unsure, have someone throw the axe at you. Never use an axe you are unwilling to have thrown back at you. For the best level of accuracy the axe should be weighted just below the head.
Marshall inspections
Since axes are still quite rare, make sure the marshall you have inspecting them actually knows what to look for. Marshalls take note if fighters are starting to use these weapons in your area.
The key things to look for are:
Do not allow the marshall to bend the axe. Axes are not required to flex like arrows. Axes don’t splinter like arrows. This is a pointless test which will only cause the carpet in the axe to decay faster, making it floppy and useless as a weapon.
Like any piece of equipment, if you are unsure about the safety of an axe, leave it off the field.
Care and maintenance
Keep the entire axe covered in tape. Replace frayed ends of tape. Don’t let the axes lie in a wet area, or be crushed under something heavy (this weakens the tape and deforms the carpet). As the carpet deteriorates the axe will become floppy. This doesn’t make it unsafe, but it does make it useless as a weapon.
Using throwing axes
Axes are a really easy weapon to use at a basic level, but really hard to use well in mixed combat. Most people throw the axe too hard and as a result accuracy suffers. The key is getting the axe to rotate while remaining upright. Don’t throw them like a ball, keep the arm fairly straight and snap the wrist to get it spinning. Alternatively you can throw the axe sideways like a frisbee. This is useful for leg shots below shield walls and while the thrower is running.
Axes can reach out over 20 yards range, but are most effective below 10. At close range be careful you don’t throw too hard at light armoured combatants, or when attacking from behind.
Carry your axes in several belts slung around your body. A maximum of 6 axes per belt is ideal, otherwise the belt falls slack as you unload. Harry of Eccles carries around 16 axes onto the field - 13 in three belts, two in his left hand and one in his right. If he uses all 16, he reloads off a nearby Horde archer who will usually carry a couple of spares.
Remember that when an axe is hit by an arrow or another axe it is dead. Drop it immediately, calling out to your opponent as you do so to let them know what happened.
Field re-inspections are not the norm in Lochac, so check before doing so in any scenario. A field inspection should be identical to a pre-battle inspection. Check for tape splits and frays, and wipe off any dirt. If an axe looks unsafe or impossible to clean either drop it, or toss it off the field if you can do so safely.
Tactics
Axe-equipped lights live in a middle zone, without the range of the archer, but still only a light combatant who is easily killed at close quarters by heavy combatants. Axes are fairly easy to block using a shield but they are hard to dodge. Axe-equipped lights are best used when closely combined with heavies or archers. Make use of fast movement and high rate of fire (about three to four times faster than an archer even when aiming). Never stop moving. When you attack, rush in as a group and keep firing until your opponents are dead or fleeing. If they run, chase them and hit them in the back. Archers will usually turn and try to open the range if charged, so this makes axe-equipped lights ideal for pushing flanks.
If you have any questions or ideas for the improvement of the design, please contact either:
Alaric Longshaft (Matthew Lawrence) or