16TH Century Bobbin Lace

A Practical Introduction

Mistress Mathilde Adycote

A Brief Introduction

It is generally accepted that bobbin lace emerged in the early sixteenth century from passementerie. It is not clear, and no-one can agree, where it first emerged - but both Venice and Flanders claim to have invented it. Certainly both places were centres of the lace trade and production.

In the early part of the century bobbin lace was much used as insertions and applications on household linens and clothing. As such it was made from bleached linen, coloured silks and silver and gold metallic threads. In the latter part of the century more bobbin lace began to imitate the designs used in needlelace (punto in aria, reticella etc) and started to appear on the edges of cuffs, collars, ruffs and handkerchiefs. By the beginning of the seventeenth century bobbin lace had overtaken needle lace in popularity and was moving to the fantastic heights of the eighteenth century. The plaits and trails of this lace can still be seen in the modern Bedfordshire, Maltese, Cluny and Le Puy laces.

Equipment

Pillows

Today there are many style of lace pillow. The main requirement being a firm surface to pin the lace to. Only a few pictures exist of lace pillows used in period but they appear to be a bolster-style pillow, usually placed on a stand.

Bobbins

The bobbins were quite large and "continental" in style. The bolster-style pillow meant that the rounded bobbins did not roll as much as on later, flatter pillows.

Pins

Sixteenth century laces used fewer pins than later laces, temporary pins can be put in place and then moved as the plaits are tensioned. Pins were expensive and their production labour intensive - it took up to 18 people to make a pin, each doing a different task The process of manufacture did not change until the nineteenth century when a machine which could make headed pins in one piece was introduced.

It is best to use brass pins so that your thread is not discoloured by rust.

Prickings

Prickings were made on parchment similar to that used for needle lace. They were used as a pattern guide, the pattern drawn on the parchment and then guide holes pricked through the parchment.

Winding your bobbins

Bobbins are wound and used in pairs. It is best to wind half of the thread onto one bobbin and then the other half onto the other. It is important to always wind the thread onto the bobbin in the same direction. Hold the bobbin in your left hand, wind away from you with your right hand. Better still is to hold the thread steady in your right hand and roll the bobbin.

The Basic Movements in Bobbin Lace Making

There are only two basic movements or stitches that make up the basis of all bobbin lace. These are known as the "cross" and "twist".

The Cross

To make the cross, take the middle two threads of the four and cross the left over the right. The cross is always made this way and never varies.

The Twist

To make the twist take the right hand threads of each pair and twist them right thread over left. The twist is always made this way.

Some Techniques Useful for 16th Century Bobbin Lace

Whole, or Cloth, Stitch

Cloth stitch consists of a "cross" + a "twist" + a "cross". These three movements result in the left hand pair of threads moving through the right hand pairs. It looks like woven cloth and is often used for trails in 16th century laces. Another twist is often added in braid laces which gives an open "lacy" look to the braids.

The Plait

The Plait, which is the basis of many 16th century laces, is simply the repetition of "cross" and "twist", being sure to tension after a "cross" so that the plait is kept flat and smooth.

The Windmill Crossing (4 pairs)

The four pair windmill crossing is used when two plaits intersect. Treat each pair of threads as one thread and cross the centre pairs, twist the right hand pairs, put up a pin, and cross the centre pairs again.

Selected Bibliography